Exploring Surf City: Surf Adventures and Lessons in El Tunco, El Salvador

Written by Jedediah Watkins 

Read Time: 15 Minutes

Introduction: The Call of El Tunco

There I was, sitting in El Paredon, with whitewash and black sand beaches, relaxing. Feeling the gentle tug of the waves that I had felt in Puerto Escondido, Mexico. I was itching for an adventure on the water.

That’s when I stumbled upon El Tunco, a captivating coastal town in El Salvador. I had heard tales of its waves and the magnetic pull it has on surfers from around the globe.

El Tunco translated to ‘The Pig’, named after a famous pig-shaped rock along the shoreline. I imagined the vibrant sunsets, the rhythmic crashing of the Pacific waves, and the boundless energy permeating the air. The pull was undeniable.

The winding roads through El Salvador promised a wild ride. Drivers take overtaking very seriously here and the more people they have in the shuttle bus the harder they try to overtake. For a moment I was transported to Fast and the Furious: The San Salvador Drift!

The insanity of the highway faded into the sea mist the second we turned off the main road. All of a sudden the cars flying by had transformed into people, casually strolling towards the beach. The trees lining the highway had become tiendas full of sweet treats and fresh coconut water.

The moment I arrived, I felt an exhilarating rush. The scent of the ocean mixed with a hint of local street food made my senses dance. The relaxed atmosphere along the streets was contagious. Surf shops lined the path, each one filled with boards, gear, and enthusiastic surfers swapping stories. The town was a colourful mix of murals, cafes, and boutique hostels, all vibrating with laid-back energy. Imagine Crush the turtle in Finding Nemo, that exact energy permeated the place.

But this had been a long journey, across a boarder as dusk had fallen. It was time for bed, the surf could wait one more night.

First Surfing Encounter

The next morning, I rose with the sun. Standing on El Tunco beach for the first time, I felt the call of the ocean more than ever. I headed straight for the closest surf school to book lessons and head for the beach. Fortunately I stumbled upon Wayo Surf School. What a great decision that turned out to be.

I met my instructor for the first lesson. Kelvin, a fantastic smile, sun-kissed skin and infectious enthusiasm were evidence of years spent embracing the ocean. We gathered at the store, to walk down to the beach, which was only two minutes from where we picked up the boards. Kelvin began to impart his three core essentials of surfing:

Balance: “Stay centred,” he advised, demonstrating fluid movements while staying locked into place.

Paddle: “Strong and steady,” he said, emphasising the rhythm, flowing with the current.

Pop-Up: “Swift and confident,” he demonstrated with precision and power.

We stretched to start, which is the first time I’ve been told to stretch before hitting the waves. A welcome surprise. He drew a board in the sand with a centre line for me to focus on. He took me through the steps of paddling, checking my wave and popping up. Pointing out flaws in my technique and coaching me up. Then it was time to take the plunge.

The first dive into the warm embrace of the Pacific was exhilarating. Fumbling with the board and trying to maintain balance was both challenging and thrilling. Even getting out to the waves was a challenge here. A reason the waves here are so great is because the current is particularly strong. Meaning you really have to earn the privilege to get onto the waves.

 As the morning progressed, I found enjoyment in the small victories. Kelvin cheered me on, as if I were an old friend. After ninety minutes fighting the current. It was time to head back in to debrief on the first session.

Exhausted yet elated, I watched the sun shine above the waves. El Tunco had already shown me a slice of its spirited charm. My El Tunco surf adventure had begun, and I could feel the ocean calling to my soul.

First Impressions: A Surfer's Paradise

When I first arrived at Surf City, I was immediately struck by the vibrant surf culture. The air seemed to hum with energy, sea spray from the ocean blended with the rhythmic sound of crashing waves. As I walked towards the beach, I couldn't help but notice the diverse community that gathered there. From seasoned surfers with bleached hair to eager beginners clutching their boards, ready to take on their first wave.

The Beach Scene

The beach itself was a mesmerizing sight. Stretching out as far as the eye could see, shiny smooth rocks wore down from millennia of waves crashing over them sat atop black volcanic sands that met a dark obsidian ocean. The surf shops lining the promenade were bustling with activity:

Local Shops: Offering everything from surfboards and swimsuits to tiny trinkets and souvenirs.

Cafés and Snack Bars: Serving freshly brewed coffee, smoothie bowls, and hearty breakfasts designed to fuel a day of surfing. One particular spot, ‘Point Break Cafe’ served up some fantastic bagels that got me ready to hit the waves.

The Locals

I quickly noticed the friendliness of the locals. Surfers are some of the happiest people you'll ever meet, (as long as you don’t take their wave) always smiling, always ready to share a tip or two.

A local surfer, clad in a colourful rash guard, approached me and pointed out the prime surfing spots, saying, "You've gotta try the break at the north end. It's perfect for catching some clean rights." Not aware that I definitely wouldn’t be catching any ‘clean rights’ for a long time.

Surfing Conditions

The ocean waves were calling me in, inviting me to experience the ride of a lifetime. When I wasn’t on the water I was thinking about surfing. Going for regular strolls along the beach. Pointing out different spots along the horizon that had the best waves and watching how they moved along the beach through the hours.

Here the water always seems warm and the wind never too strong (you don’t want strong offshore winds of that creates a chop on the water, clean sailing is perfect).  

The beach here is bookmarked by rocky outcrops that could cause trouble if you stray too far from the main stage. So it’s important not to get caught by the strong current near the shore.

Meeting the Locals: A Warm Welcome

I met Greg, an old-timer with a bronzed face and a white beard that spoke of years in the sun. Behind his weathered exterior, he radiated friendliness. Over a cup of coffee, Greg began sharing stories about the best surf spots, his eyes lighting up as he talked about the big swells. When I mentioned I was a beginner, he chuckled, "Don't worry, mate. These waves are perfect for it." His easy-going nature quickly put me at ease.

You hear a lot about surfing being really exclusive, and it is. There’s a high price that comes with surf lessons, travel to surf locations and getting the equipment. You also don’t see lots of accessible adaptive surf schools providing extra resources, assistance or an adapted surf experience for those with additional needs who want to enjoy the surf.

There’s also a reputation for surfers to be hostile to newcomers. You see a lot of it online but here, in El Tunco, that couldn’t be further from the truth. It’s been nothing but friendly times and happy experiences from all levels of surfer.

The local surf shop was my next stop. The server there was fantastic, a bubbly woman with sun-bleached hair and an infectious laugh. She showed me a variety of rash guards and patiently helped me pick the perfect one. "You'll want something comfortable," she said. She had a knack for explaining things simply, making me feel more confident about my upcoming lessons.

Later that evening, the sky transformed into a canvas of reds and oranges as the sun set. There was a crackling fire on the beach and the scent of burning wood created an atmosphere that was both surreal and heartwarming. The locals shared tales that ranged from hilarious to poignant, making me feel a deep connection to this vibrant community.

Surfing Lessons: From Novice to Enthusiast

I stood on the shore for my second lesson, board under arm, feeling the sand between my toes and the ocean breeze on my face. Nerves were high, but so was my excitement.

The conditions were nothing short of perfect. The consistency of the waves, the warm water temperature, and the gentle offshore breeze all pointed to an ideal surfing experience. I couldn't wait to paddle out. As I waded into the water, board in hand, I felt a sense of exhilaration mixed with anticipation. I looked back to Kelvin and he gave me a nod of approval and a ‘Vamos’ which was all I needed to hear!

There was an atmosphere of camaraderie in the water. Fellow surfers nodded in acknowledgment, some giving encouraging hoots and hand signs as they rode past me. The sun was starting to climb higher, casting a warm glow over the sparkling water. Everything felt right; it was indeed a surfer's paradise.

I remember the initial struggle—wobbly legs and constant spills into the water. The first few lessons were all about finding balance. With the guidance of my seasoned instructor, I learned the basics:

Catching the First Wave

The breakthrough moment came on my second session. I finally caught my first real wave. The first session was all about finding balance against the smaller whitewash. Surfers would laugh at these, you wouldn’t even call them one footers. Sometimes it was hard to balance because the waves were so small they didn’t have the energy to push me along. But persevere I did.

I told Kelvin I had caught bigger waves at Carazalillo in Puerto Escondido but he wanted me to master the fundamentals. And I always trust my coach.

The second session it was time to perfect the pop-up. Get up quick enough and find balance immediately so those faster bigger waves don’t take me by surprise. And nearing the end of this session I looked back to Kelvin and said “Yo necessito grande olas” (I need big waves). Once again, I got the nod of approval. He took us back a further twenty metres to the larger waves.

These waves were no joke. They were as tall as me and they were strong. Looking back I could see the ferocity in each one as they flowed past us. Kelvin took his time choosing the best one for me. Big enough to teach me, not too big to teach me a lesson. After letting three or four past, it was time.

He gave me all the pep talk I needed, told me the wave was closing in, told me to paddle, and with a final “GET UP”…

I was alone, for a split second that could’ve lasted the lifetime of the universe, I was at the precipice. The zenith of the wave. I almost got caught in the moment. Swallowed up by the waters and spat out on the shore. But not today, not me!

I popped up, almost slipping off the board as I jumped up too quickly. I felt myself wobble as the wave began to crash behind me. This was it, and I wouldn’t let it go. I found my balance, pushed against the rushing waters and rode it all the way in.

The feeling was indescribable—a rush of adrenaline and pure joy. This taste of success spurred me to push myself further, fostering an obsession to master the sport.

Being in El Tunco I could feel the passion for the surf and for living by the ocean. There’s a calmness to it, an ease of living. The peace that flows in from the sea permeates the town. Flowing through everyone as they flow through the waves. A balance found on the board and in the life here. I’ve learned a lot more here about surfing and El Tunco. But I’ll go ahead and save that for next time…

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