Exploring Oaxaca: A Travel Guide to Markets, Cuisine and Culture

Written by Jedediah Watkins

Read Time: 15 Minutes

Introduction to Oaxaca: A Cultural Tapestry

Sitting in the depths of southern Mexico, Oaxaca (pronounced 'wa-ha-ka') is a region where cultural traditions and scenic beauty blend to create a story as vibrant as its famous textiles. With its indigenous roots firmly planted and Spanish influences woven in, Oaxaca stands as a living museum of Mexico's diverse history. All of this makes it an incredible place for travel, tourism and adventure!

Vibrant Indigenous Communities: Oaxaca is home to 16 different indigenous groups, including the Zapotec and Mixtec, whose languages, customs, and creative expressions fill the streets with a palette of cultural richness. Amazingly, some people here speak Spanish as a second language, using mainly their indigenous language first.

Charm and colonial past: Strolling through Oaxaca City's cobblestone streets, visitors are transported back in time amidst older Spanish architecture, tranquil courtyards, and the buzz of open-air markets. Making the mark of colonialism impossible to ignore.

Gastronomic delights: This sunny state is a feast for the senses, famed for its moles, smoky mescals, and delectable street foods that make it a haven for foodies.

Artisanal Wonders: The region's artisans are unrivaled in their skill, creating intricately designed weavings, pottery, and woodcarvings that are a symbol of Oaxacan identity. You can’t turn a corner without finding some fantastic handmade artwork.

Spiritual Nexus: Centuries-old churches and festivals, like the Guelaguetza, are profound displays of Oaxaca's spiritual fervor and community unity.

Oaxaca's panoramic landscapes, from the rugged Sierra Norte mountains to the serene coastlines of Puerto Escondido, frame this cultural mosaic. The profuse blend of ancient and modern, natural and crafted, sacred and everyday, makes Oaxaca a place where each visitor can find something to connect with deeply.

Immersing in the Colours of Oaxacan Markets

The vibrant beat of Oaxaca can be best felt in the bustling aisles of its local markets. Starting off in the heart of the city, travelers should delve into the Mercado Benito Juárez, a maze of colours and scents that offers anything from handcrafted textiles to exotic fruits. Inhale the rich aroma of freshly ground chocolate Oaxaqueño, and treat your palate to an explosion of flavours with a tlayuda, a traditional Oaxacan street food.

Don't miss the opportunity to:

Explore the array of indigenous textiles.

Sample delicacies such as chapulines (grasshoppers) if you're feeling adventurous. (They taste great with a little lemon and spice)

Purchase local cheese, known as quesillo, perfect for a light snack.

Next, amble over to the 20 de Noviembre market, a sanctuary for foodies. Here, you can:

Witness the famous "Pasillo de Humo" or the "Smoke Alley," where meats are grilled to succulent perfection.

Opt for an interactive experience by choosing your cuts and having them cooked on the spot.

Indulge in Oaxaca's renowned mole, a sauce so complex and rich, every recipe is a well-guarded family secret.

Make sure to:

Strike up conversations with friendly vendors to learn the stories behind their crafts.

This immersive experience provides not just a visual treat but an authentic slice of Oaxacan life. Strolling through these venues, it quickly becomes clear that markets in Oaxaca are not mere shopping arenas; they are living galleries, showcasing the vivid tapestry of local tradition and gastronomic heritage that defines this beautiful region. While my friend showed me around his hometown, he introduced me to family members as we sat and ate at their stalls. Truly a homely and cozy experience.

The Heart of Oaxaca's Market Scene: Mercado Benito Juárez

In the centre of Oaxaca, Mercado Benito Juárez pulses with the beat of this culturally rich city. A visit here is essential to truly soak in the local atmosphere. It is a place where the vivid colours, tantalising aromas, and bouncing energy converge to create an unforgettable market experience.

For food enthusiasts, the market is a treasure trove:

Sample an array of Oaxacan cheese, known locally as quesillo, a stringy delight that's perfect with a warm tortilla.

Sip on fresh, exotic juices or indulge in a cup of traditional hot chocolate, made from locally grown cacao and served with a freshly baked pan de yema (a soft brioche bun).

Don't miss the chapulines, if you’re feeling adventurous; these seasoned and toasted grasshoppers are a crunchy snack with a kick.

Craft aficionados will marvel at the array of textiles, handwoven by skilled artisans:

Discover vibrant huipiles and rebozos, garments that are both beautiful and steeped in cultural significance.

Explore a labyrinth of stalls adorned with handcrafted alebrijes, the whimsical carved creatures that are a Oaxacan specialty.

Fine black pottery, known as barro negro, shines with a unique metallic luster that's both eye-catching and elegant.

Amidst this bustling maze, you're also likely to encounter the warm smiles and friendliness of the local vendors, inviting you to try their wares and sharing tales that add depth to the items you're browsing. Mercado Benito Juárez isn’t just a market; it’s a sensory journey that offers a true taste of Oaxaca's heart and soul.

Culinary Quest: Sampling Oaxacan Street Food

Oaxaca's streets buzz with the savoury scents of traditional cooking, making the region a paradise for those with an adventurous palate. Travellers to Oaxaca can embark on an unforgettable culinary journey, one street-side stand at a time.

Tlayudas are an essential experience, huge crispy tortillas slathered with beans, lettuce, avocado, meat and Oaxacan cheese. Best enjoyed late evening at a bustling local stand.

Elotes and Esquites, grilled corn on the cob or in a cup, dressed with mayonnaise, cheese, chili powder, and lime, present a tangy and creamy treat found on many a street corner.

Memelas offer a canvas of blue or yellow corn dough, painted with black beans, salsa, queso fresco and topped with a choice of meat. Each bite is a rich blend of Oaxacan flavours.

Tamales Oaxaqueños stand out with their banana leaf wrapping, hiding savory or sweet fillings like Mole Negro and chicken or pineapple and raisins.

Visitors are encouraged to savour the famous Oaxacan chocolate, whether drinking it hot and spiced in a morning cup or finding it in moles that dress chicken or enchiladas. And for refreshment, nothing rivals a tuna (prickly pear fruit) flavored icy nieve, a traditional Oaxacan sorbet. (The first time I was offered a tuna juice I almost ran away until I realised it was a fruit and not the fish).

While exploring the vibrant food scene, it's important to keep in mind that the best stands often don’t have a fixed address. Follow the locals or the aroma to discover these hidden gems. Always remember to approach each bite with an open mind – Oaxacan street food is as much about the experience as it is about the flavours.

Exploring the Artisans' World at Mercado de Artesanías

Dive into the pulsating heart of Oaxaca's craftsmanship at the Mercado de Artesanías. This vibrant marketplace brims with the essence of local talent, where each stall unfolds a story of tradition and skill. Visitors wander through a kaleidoscope of colours and textures.

Woven textiles ripple with the rich hues of natural dyes, and here, bargaining is part of the dance of purchase.

Clay pots stand in earthy majesty, their forms shaped by the age-old hands of potters who continue a lineage of artisanal heritage.

Sterling silver glints from jewellery stands, each piece reflecting the meticulous attention to details Oaxacan silversmiths are renowned for.

As you explore, keep an ear out for the melodious hum of indigenous languages—a testament to the market's deep cultural roots.

Don't miss out on the textiles made from Oaxaca's famed silk-cotton thread—delicate yet durable, it's a tactile marvel.

The Mercado de Artesanías isn't merely a marketplace; it's an experience that transcends shopping. It's where travelers gain insight into Oaxaca's cultural fabric, each acquisition fostering not just a transaction but a cultural exchange that resonates long after leaving its spirited aisles.

A Deep Dive into Oaxaca's Gastronomic Riches

Awake with the zest for a flavour-packed day ahead. Day 2 in Oaxaca promised a culinary escapade through the city's famous food scene. Walking through bustling aisles of more markets, you're surrounded by the vibrant colours and scents of the freshest produce. Spices, chocolates, and an army of chillies fill the air with an intoxicating aroma, tempting every visitor to taste and explore.

The morning was filled with fresh fruit samples from around the stalls, with another Choco Mio (honestly I’ve never tasted a drink so good, we gotta get these things global).

Sample exotic fruits and quesillo, the Oaxacan string cheese that's a regional specialty.

In the afternoon, consider a cooking class to dive deeper into Oaxacan cuisine. Under the guidance of a local chef, learn how to make classic dishes like 'mole negro' — a complex, rich sauce with layers of flavour that tell the story of Oaxaca's culinary history.

End your day with a sit-down at one of Oaxaca’s renowned restaurants. Push culinary boundaries with innovative dishes that blend traditional ingredients and modern techniques, leaving your palate dancing with unforgettable sensations.

Tantalising Tastes: Oaxaca's Seven Moles

Oaxaca's culinary tapestry is vibrant and complex, with its seven iconic moles serving as the pièce de résistance. These rich and flavourful sauces are a marriage of indigenous ingredients and Spanish influences, each with its own distinct personality.

Mole Negro – Often referred to as the king of moles, Mole Negro is famous for its deep, smoky flavour. It contains over 30 ingredients, including the rare chilhuacle negro chili, and is celebrated for its intricate balance of chocolate, spice, and charred notes.

Mole Rojo – This Mole Rojo boasts a radiant red (rojo) hue and a slightly less intense flavour compared to its darker counterpart. It typically features ancho and guajillo chiles, along with tomatillos and a touch of sweetness.

Mole Coloradito – With a thinner consistency, Coloradito is subtly sweet with a hint of cinnamon. This mole is often the base for savoury dishes like enchiladas and tamales.

Mole Amarillo – Bright and tangy, Amarillo incorporates yellow chiles and often features ingredients like green beans and chayote. It's the go-to sauce for chicken and vegetables.

Mole Verde – Verde (green) bursts with the freshness of herbs like cilantro and parsley. Pumpkin seeds, jalapeños, and tomatillos round out its fresh and slightly nutty flavour.

Mole Chichilo – Chichilo is known for its dark, ash-coated chilies that provide a distinctive earthy taste. It's less common outside of Oaxaca but is a must-try for any mole aficionado.

Mole Manchamanteles – Translating to "tablecloth stainer," this mole is a fruity affair with pineapple and plantains often in the mix. A playful dance between sweet and spicy, it's a celebration on a plate.

In Oaxaca, mole isn't just a sauce; it's a symphony of tastes, textures, and stories. A visitor truly hasn't experienced Oaxaca until they've delved into this labyrinth of flavours. Markets like the Mercado Benito Juárez brim with ingredients for these moles, and local chefs proudly carry secrets passed down through generations. To indulge is not just to eat; it is to taste Oaxaca's heritage.

The Cultural Soul of Oaxaca

Travelers should immerse themselves deeply into the beating cultural heart of Oaxaca. Enjoy the cobbled streets, admire the colourful buildings that tell stories of bygone eras. To truly feel the spirit of the city;

First stop, the Templo de Santo Domingo, an architectural marvel with intricate Baroque facades and a gold-gilded interior that glows with Oaxacan sunshine. Here, delve into the rich history by exploring the adjacent Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, which showcases the treasures of the Tomb from the Zapotec city of Monte Albán.

In the afternoon, opt for an art walk around the city. Oaxaca's streets are dotted with galleries showcasing local and international artists. Don't miss the Arte de Oaxaca gallery for a diverse collection of works or the Graphic Arts Institute of Oaxaca for cutting-edge prints and design. On my final walk around the city I found a live show happening in the street, I had no idea what was going on but it was incredible.

Ancient Rhythms: Visiting the Ruins of Monte Albán

In the depths of Oaxaca's verdant valleys, the ancient city of Monte Albán stands as a breathtaking testament to Zapotec civilisation. Just 20 minutes from the bustling streets of Oaxaca City, travellers can journey back in time, exploring the cradle of Mesoamerican culture.

Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by the grandeur of Monte Albán's Main Plaza, a massive, artificially flattened area that is anchored by the site's ceremonial centres. Intrepid explorers can climb the weathered steps of the pyramids to capture panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes that stretch endlessly into the horizon.

Among the ruins are ball courts that once echoed with the sounds of the pre-Columbian ball game (something I will delve into a lot more in a future piece), and rock-hewn tombs that whisper tales of ancient rituals. Not to be overlooked are the famous 'Danzantes' stone slabs, etched with depictions of contorted human figures, which have fuelled both fascination and debate among historians.

Bring plenty of water and a hat as the midday sun can be relentless, making the shade of the scattered mesquite trees a welcome respite.

Consider hiring a guide to fully appreciate the context and history of each structure, bringing to life the complex society that constructed this architectural marvel.

Don't miss the chance to visit the on-site museum, housing exquisite artefacts unearthed from the ruins that provide insight into the daily life of the Zapotec people.

Walking Through History: The Streets and Museums of Oaxaca City

Zócalo: The main square, known as the Zócalo, is the center of the city. Here, travelers and locals bask in the shade of laurel trees, people-watch or join in the frequent cultural events. This vibrant hub is encapsulated by historic buildings and the sounds of street musicians, creating an inviting atmosphere.

Templo de Santo Domingo: A short walk leads to the majestic Templo de Santo Domingo, a baroque architectural marvel. Stand in awe of its intricate façade and explore the adjoining former convent, which now houses the Cultural Center of Oaxaca.

Museums: For those hungry for knowledge, Oaxaca City is a treasure trove:

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca: This museum showcases the diverse history of Oaxaca's cultures. Its exhibits span from the pre-Hispanic era to the present day, making it a must-visit for history buffs.

Museo Rufino Tamayo: Here, one can admire a unique collection of pre-Columbian artifacts curated by the famous painter Rufino Tamayo.

Museo Textil de Oaxaca: Textile enthusiasts will be captivated by this museum, which celebrates the textile arts, displaying the intricate work of local weavers.

Walk down Alcalá, a pedestrian street lined with galleries, boutiques, and quaint cafes. As the day draws to a close, the street comes alive with art exhibitions and street performers, inviting visitors to partake in the city's creative spirit.

Each step in Oaxaca City is an opportunity to immerse in its storied past—its streets serve as open-air museums, and its actual museums are custodians of the hidden stories of civilizations. It's an experience that truly transports one back in time, as they meander through this enchanting city.

A Tapestry of Traditions: Oaxacan Music and Dance

Immerse yourself in the vibrant cultural fabric of Oaxaca through its music and dance. This southern state of Mexico is a melting pot of indigenous cultures, each bringing their unique sounds and movements to the party. Here's what to expect and where to find the living heartbeat of Oaxaca's traditions:

Guelaguetza Festival: This annual event is a must-see, showcasing the diversity of Oaxacan culture with performances from the eight regions of Oaxaca. Each group performs traditional dances in brightly coloured costumes, often accompanied by live bands playing regional music. Plan your trip around July to witness this spectacular gathering.

Street Performances: You don't need a festival to enjoy Oaxacan music and dance. Simply stroll through the streets of Oaxaca City, especially around the Zócalo, and you might encounter impromptu shows by local performers. Mariachis, marimba players, and folk dancers are common sights, sharing their art with passersby.

Traditional Dances: Keep an eye out for dances like the Flor de Piña, a beautiful performance by women in traditional Tehuana attire, or the Danza de la Pluma, a storytelling dance that features a mix of Spanish and indigenous elements. They're often performed at local celebrations and can be a highlight of your visit.

Each dance step and note played in Oaxaca is a thread in the larger tapestry of this region's heritage. Whether you're watching a grand festival performance or a cosy live set at a bar, the energy of Oaxacan music and dance is a poignant reminder of the area's rich cultural landscape.

Conclusion: Carrying Oaxaca with You

As I bid farewell to the vibrant streets of Oaxaca, my memories are seasoned with the region's robust flavours and bright hues. Over the course of three days, I encountered a place where tradition and modernity are woven seamlessly into the fabric of daily life. The warmth of Oaxacan hospitality finds a way to embed itself deep within the heart.

Mercifully, the essence of Oaxaca isn't confined to its geography. It lives on through the:

Recipes: Exchange stories with friends over a homemade mole negro, each simmering pot a reminder of Oaxaca’s culinary prowess.

Crafts: Keep the colours alive in with locally made textiles and ceramics, a testament to the enduring artistry of the Oaxacan people.

Photographs: Every picture captured tells a unique story, an invitation to relive the moments shared among the bustle of markets and the serenity of ancient temples.

Connections: Nurturing the friendships formed, for human connections are the strongest souvenirs, tying one back to the places they cherish.

In leaving, I carry with me not just souvenirs, but also a piece of Oaxaca, an imprint on my persona. It's the start of a lifelong journey of appreciation for a culture that, even in a brief visit, offers enough to fill the soul for years to come. And as the scent of chapulines fades, and the taste of chocolate Oaxaqueño lingers, one can rest in the knowledge that Oaxaca isn't just a place. It's an experience, forever etched into my being, ready to be revisited with each shared story and every bite of quesillo.

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