Written by Jedediah Watkins
Read Time: 10 Minutes
The Allure of Puerto Escondido's Waters
After my first post on travel surfing, I was asked for a
more personal take on the experience so far and I completely agree with it. So come
ride this wave with me.
I remember the first time I saw the pristine waters of
Puerto Escondido. The sun painted shimmering hues of blue and turquoise
across the ocean's surface, and the soft hush of crashing waves beckoned me
closer. It's a coastline etched in my memory, where the warm Mexican air mingled
with the salty sea breeze, creating an irresistible invitation to dive in.
Here, the lively waters of Carizalillo Beach stand
out as a novice surfer's haven, where gentle swells offer the perfect canvas to
find your balance and ride your first wave. The waves at first look a little
intimidating, but without that soft push necessary to ride the wave, you’ll
never get the true thrill, that adrenaline rush that will take you deeper. To
me, it feels like this hidden gem was created with the spirit of adventure and
the embrace of mother nature in mind.
The water aside, Playa Carizalillo is a serene scene.
Cut into a sharp valley (about 200 steps down a winding staircase and all). The
steep hills on either side of the stunning golden sands set the vista onto
a framed canvas, beckoning your gaze out to sea. Sunbeds line the shade with
restaurants offering rest bite from the relentless sun. As the vendors scale
the shore offering deals on bracelets, coconuts and more.
I also recently wrote a more information heavy piece on surfing in Puerto Escondido, which you can find right here -
https://micielotravels.blogspot.com/2024/05/from-playa-to-punta-exploring-surf-and.html
Taking the Plunge: Deciding to Learn Surfing
A few years ago I was blessed to travel down to the
south coast of England. There I would away with my worries and be offered the
chance to take up a surfboard and set sail to the sea just off of the coast of
Devon.
I always yearned to return to the rush of riding
waves but hesitated at the shoreline of commitment. The urge bubbled within me
as I watched surfers glide effortlessly over the ocean's skin. Eventually, the
calling of the sea grew too loud to ignore.
I felt drawn to the shimmering shore of Carizalillo
Beach, a haven encrusted in Puerto Escondido, spoken of by travellers and
locals alike. A perfect tableau of golden sands and turquoise waters, it
promised gentler waves than the beaches down the road for a beginner's
uncertain steps. As the sun cast its golden net over the horizon, I knew it was
time to face the tides and embrace the surfer's journey.
The Early Trepidations: Confronting the Ocean's Might
I remember my first glimpse of Carizalillo Beach; the
water gleamed under the sun, inviting yet daunting. As I hugged my borrowed
surfboard, the ocean's roar was a stark reminder of its vast power. Other
surfers seemed at ease, their bodies effortlessly slicing through the waves,
but my heart pounded with a mix of fear and excitement. I watched the water's
pattern, trying to decipher its rhythm, with no chance of unravelling its
secrets. With every crashing wave, my doubts surged, yet there was an
underlying thrill—the ocean was challenging me, and I was here to accept its
call.
Finding the Right Guide: The Importance of a Mentor
In my quest to conquer the waves at Carizalillo
Beach, I quickly realised the importance of having a mentor. A good surf
instructor is not just a teacher, but a guide who can:
Ease the overwhelming aspects of learning to surf
Provide personalised feedback and practical tips
Help navigate tides and avoid potential hazards
Encourage when confidence wobbles on a tricky wave
Finding the right mentor enriched my experience,
accelerated my learning curve, and instilled in me the nuances of surfing that
only a seasoned local could impart.
The First Encounter: My Initial Experience with the
Waves
I stepped onto Carizalillo's sands, heart fluttering with
anticipation. The shore break lightly kissed my toes, beckoning me further.
Clutching my rented board, I ventured into the embrace of the Pacific,
my eyes fixed on the curves of water. A symphony of surf and breeze filled the
air as more seasoned souls danced upon the waves. With surgically repaired knees
trembling, I pushed into the ebb and flow, the horizon my silent cheerleader.
This crescent haven whispered promises of surf revelations—here, I was no
longer a mere spectator; I was a burgeoning wave rider.
Understanding the Ocean: Learning to Read the Surf
Veteran surfers seemed to interpret the language of the sea
effortlessly, choosing their waves with a sort of sixth sense, as if privy to
the ocean's secrets. I was determined to understand this watery dialogue. With
every surf outing, I focused on:
The timing of the sets, gaining patience to
anticipate the right wave.
Watching for ripples indicating underwater formations
that could affect wave quality.
Feeling the push and pull of the current to position
myself correctly.
Checking the height of the waves as they crashed
against the valley walls.
Building Skills: The Journey from Beginner to
Intermediate
As I paddled out at Carizalillo Beach, I felt both
trepidation and excitement. The waves, gentle and forgiving, beckoned me to
stand up on my board. Each attempt brought progress - from awkward falls
to steadier stances. I hit the water pretty hard a couple times, and it can
definitely take it out of you, I felt almost winded at times. Through the
laughter and splashes, I built a rhythm with the ocean's pulse. Surrounded by
fellow novices, I never felt alone in my fumbles. My instructors supporting me
with valuable tips;
Practice session by session.
Feedback from kindred surfers.
Importance of patience and perseverance.
Here, every wipeout was a step forward, turning the soft
rolling waves into trusted teachers on my journey from beginner to
intermediate.
Embracing the Local Surfing Culture
The vibrant surfing culture there was palpable, swirling in
the salty air. Locals greeted me with warm smiles and a casual “Buenos”, eager
to share their wisdom on riding the gentle waves.
Waxed boards dotted the shoreline as orange and red
sunsets played backdrop to surfers' elegant manoeuvres.
The thatched-roof huts served as impromptu gathering
spots where tales of epic rides were as freely exchanged as the communal
sunscreen.
Surf instructors, bronzed and barefoot, offered up
their knowledge with a casual expertise that was both reassuring and
infectious.
Immersing myself into this close-knit community, I
not only learned to surf, but to respect and live the laid-back, tide-oriented
lifestyle that is the essence of Puerto Escondido.
Setbacks and Triumphs: Overcoming Fears and Achieving
Milestones
My heart raced with a cocktail of fear and excitement before
my inaugural voyage. Each wave seemed to sneer at my inexperience. But the
patient instructors and gentle waves coaxed me out of my anxiety, set by set.
I'll never forget the rush of standing on the board for
the first time, feeling like I was defying gravity. Each wipe-out was a
lesson, each stand-up a victory. Soon, I was riding waves with a newfound
confidence, marvelling at how far I'd come from the anxious beginner who had
first paddled out into the surf (bare in mind that was only about 40 minutes
before this).
This cove, with its forgiving waves and supportive
community, nurtured the surfer in me, turning fears into milestones — one
exhilarating ride at a time.
The Zen of Surfing: Achieving Harmony with the Sea
As I paddle out into the calm sapphire waters of Carizalillo
Beach for my second lesson, the early morning sun cast a golden sheen over the
ocean.
The rhythmic sound of waves soothes my mind, aligning
my breath with the ebb and flow of the sea. Each wave I encounter teaches me
patience and respect, reminding me that timing and intuition are my greatest
allies. Just sitting there on the water soothed my soul. Preparing for the paddle,
the stand-up and the glide.
As I finally stand on my board, I experience a
transient moment of harmony with the mighty Pacific, a sensation that embodies
the very essence of my Zen. Here, I learn to let go, to become one with
the ocean's pulse, realizing that the secret to mastery in surfing, as in life,
is finding balance amidst the ever-changing tides.
Advanced Techniques: Honing and Refining My Surfing
Skills (my tutors guide)
At Carizalillo Beach, my surfing narrative took a
vibrant turn. From the basics, I felt ready to challenge myself. Every sunrise,
my ritual involved:
Paddling Mastery: I strove for efficiency, conserving
energy while I navigated the ocean's undulating rhythms. The first few
sessions, my shoulders burned out rapidly. It was a necessity for me to get
used to this endless cycle.
Reading the Waves: With each set, I honed my
foresight, predicting the wave's character and the ride it promised. Using my
instructors calls to prepare for the wave as a sign of what to look out for.
Perfecting Turns: My turns became sharper, as I
practised carving the water's surface with grace. This is so much easier on
faster waves, as they push you onwards. The slower waves it feels like driving
through mud.
Timing and Pop-Up: Mastery over the crucial seconds
that mark the difference between catching a wave or missing it. I started my
popping up far too quickly. It’s okay to take your time, the wave won’t rush
you.
Endurance Training: I built stamina through swimming;
the ocean was both my gym and my teacher.
Each session etched new skills into muscle and memory, my
connection with the surf deepening alongside my techniques.
Puerto Escondido's Surfing Spots: A Guide to the Best
Waves
When I first caught the surf bug, I was told tales of a
surfer's haven in Puerto Escondido. In my quest for the perfect wave, I
ventured to Zicatela Beach, home to the infamous Mexican Pipeline, where the
waves were colossal, challenging the bravest of the pack. This is a place no
novice surfer should attempt. Give it lots of time until you hit these 5 metre
waves.
But I found solace and space for honing my skills at Playa
Carrizalillo, where the waves curled more gently. Venturing to those shiny
sands became my sanctuary, with its beginner-friendly swells inviting a gentle
dance on my board.
La Punta, just 15 minutes down the road from Carrizalillo
offers a harsher break but not nearly as death-defying as Zicatela.
These spots, each with their character, create a
surfer's mosaic that promises a wave for every wanderer in the ocean's embrace.
The Equipment: Choosing My Gear for the Puerto
Escondido Waves
Selecting the right gear for the powerful waves at Puerto
Escondido was crucial for my enjoyment and safety. I went for a 7'2"
funboard, buoyant enough for my novice stance but still offering
maneuverability.
A snug-fitting yet stretchy wetsuit provided
protection against the sun and board rash, while a carefully chosen leash kept
my trusty board close after the inevitable wipeouts (this was used many many
times). Mineral-based sunscreen, eco-friendly and water-resistant, shielded my
skin from the intense Puerto sun. Without a doubt, the right gear set the stage
for my serendipitous surf sessions on Carizalillo Beach.
Conservation Efforts: Respecting and Protecting the
Marine Environment
As I walked along Carizalillo Beach, I noticed how the
community's efforts in conservation have borne fruit. The beach's cleanliness
is no casual feat; it's the result of ongoing initiatives aimed at protecting
this coastal haven.
Usage of Eco-friendly Surf Gear: I saw many surfers
with biodegradable wax and eco surfboards, a testament to the growing
environmental consciousness.
Regular Clean-Ups: Locals and visitors alike
participate in beach clean-ups, ensuring that the sands and waters remain
pristine for everyone.
Education: There's also a noticeable emphasis on
educating visitors. Informative signs about marine life conservation dot the
landscape, reminding us to tread lightly.
Each wave I caught felt like a privilege, a reminder of the
pact between us and the ocean to safeguard its majestic beauty.
Reflections and Revelations: Personal Growth Through
Surfing
As I paddled out, the vast ocean became a metaphor for my
own journey. This adventure across the Americas.
With each wave I rode, I learned to let go of
control, embracing the unpredictable nature of the sea—and a life full of
travel. The push of the water taught me resilience; every fall was a lesson in
perseverance.
Out there, amid the salt and the spray, I discovered a strength
and serenity within me that I had not known for such a long time. Surfing
was not just a sport; it became a conduit for self-discovery, a dance
with the elements that echoed the ebb and flow of personal growth.
Conclusion: The Journey Continues Beyond Puerto
Escondido
As I pack my board and bid farewell to the sun-kissed
Carizalillo waves, I carry with me more than memories. Each wipeout taught
resilience, and every successful ride instilled confidence. Puerto Escondido
ignited a flame of wanderlust for glistening shores and perfect swells. With a
heart full of gratitude, I set my sights on new horizons, where the ocean calls
and the journey of surfing continues.
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