Six Enchanting Weeks in Mexico: From the Bustling Streets of Mexico City to the Surf of Puerto Escondido

Written by Jedediah Watkins

Read Time: 20 Minutes

Setting Off on a Mexican Adventure

The allure of Mexico, with its riotous colours, pulsing rhythms, and spicy tapestry of flavours, had always tugged at my wanderlust. One of my closest friends is from Mexico City. He had always talked to me about his home city with such love and passion. I knew that had to be the first stop.

So, when the opportunity arose to start traversing this culturally rich land, from the heart of its dynamic capital to the laid-back surf town of Puerto Escondido, I did not hesitate. I was eager to immerse myself in Mexico's ancient history, to savour its diverse cuisines, and to connect with its people, whose reputation for warmth and jovial spirits (that I already had a good experience of) was almost legendary.

I departed with little more than a suitcase, a camera, and an unquenchable curiosity. Mexico City’s palpable energy was my first encounter; a megalopolis that promised endless exploration with its kaleidoscopic street art, bustling markets, and historical treasures.

The contrast between the ancient and the modern seemed to define the city's unique character, and I was ready to dive headlong into its all-encompassing embrace.

Yet, beyond the intoxicating frenzy of the urban expanse, I was equally drawn to Mexico’s natural beauty and the allure of its coastal regions.

 I envisioned the last leg of my journey in Puerto Escondido to be a time of reflection (which only half worked out), with my days marked by the rhythm of the waves and the soothing breeze of the Pacific Ocean. This anticipation of varied experiences, from the cacophony of the city to the serene whispers of the sea, only heightened my excitement.

Balancing practicality with preparedness, my luggage was an eclectic mix of city ware and beach-ready gear. With passport in hand and a mind open to the myriad of possibilities, I stepped across the threshold of my home, I set free the expectations of everyday life. I was setting off on a grand adventure, and every sense was tuned to the magic that awaited.

Immersed in the Vibrancy of Mexico City

As my plane descended, the sprawling expanse of Mexico City came into view – a tapestry of excitement and history waiting to be explored. Upon arrival, the buzz of the metropolis engulfed me. The air was thick partially with the aroma of street vendors frying tacos and the other half heavy pollution. The sound of street performers, from mariachi bands to musical boxes being played, fill the air in their own unplanned orchestra.

I ventured to the Zócalo, the city's beating heart. Here, against the backdrop of the magnificent Metropolitan Cathedral, I felt like I was walking through layers of time. Each step on the cobblestone pavements was a rhythm in a city pulsating with life.

Vibrant colours from traditional buildings flash against the glass buildings adorned with multinational corporation logos, juxtaposing the countries incredible history with it’s contemporary present.

The Frida Kahlo Museum offered a poignant glimpse into the soul of Mexico’s beloved artist. The vivid blue walls of La Casa Azul mirrored the intensity of her paintings. The story of her life, art and activism impossible to contain within the walls of her lifetime home, but still truly harrowing to experience.

The ancient ruins of Templo Mayor surprised me with their stoic presence amidst modern buildings, whispering secrets of the past.

Nights out in Mexico City were a symphony of sensory experiences:

The sultry steps of salsa dancers in the intimate settings of smoky dance halls.

The thrill of a Lucha Libre match, where masked wrestlers launched into the air, defying gravity, cheered on by impassioned fans.

Every corner of Mexico City offered new marvels. The sprawling Chapultepec Park became my sanctuary, where I could indulge in a moment of tranquility beneath the lush canopy, juxtaposed against the city’s vibrant rhythm.

It wasn't long before I realised that Mexico City doesn't just invite you to visit – it draws you into its embrace, urging you to live in its vibrant hues and ceaseless energy. Here, in this city of contrasts, I began my six-week journey through Mexico, heart open and eyes wide with wonder.

Exploring the Ancient Secrets of Xochimilco

Stepping away from the high energy of Mexico City, I found serenity upon the ancient waters of Xochimilco. Known for its colorful trajineras—vividly decorated flat-bottomed boats—I was charmed by the thought of exploring the same canals that the Aztecs once navigated.

As my trajinera, adorned with flowers and named after a beloved Mexican singer, glided through the calm waters, I was struck by the sheer tranquility that enveloped the floating gardens, or chinampas. These feats of agricultural ingenuity have been nurturing crops since pre-Hispanic times.

The sound of Mariachi bands mingled with the laughter of families enjoying their weekend retreats.

Locals bartered with colorful crafts and hot, steaming elotes from smaller canoes which wove expertly between the trajineras.

I made sure to find the Island of the Dolls, a haunting testament to the area's folklore. Hundreds of weathered dolls hung from the trees, said to pacify the spirit of a girl who tragically drowned in the canals.

Each turn in the canal brought a new slice of history, a new secret unveiled by Xochimilco's silent waters. Here, in a rhythm unaltered by time, I felt the pulse of ancient Mexico beating beneath the hum of modern life.

Cultural Tapestry and Cuisine of Oaxaca

As I ventured into the heart of Oaxaca, it became clear that this was a place where every corner held a story, and every meal was a celebration of heritage. The cultural tapestry of Oaxaca is a vibrant mosaic, intricately woven with threads of indigenous traditions and Spanish colonial influences. The streets thrummed with the energy of open-air markets, artisans selling handcrafted textiles, and walls adorned with murals that spoke of ancestral pride.

The traditional box like buildings, dressed in beautiful blues, oranges, yellows and more signifying truly arriving in Oaxaca City.

One cannot simply talk about Oaxaca without delving into its culinary sphere. Oaxacan cuisine, a UNESCO-recognized treasure, is a delightful dance for the senses. I took joy in starting my mornings with a hearty tlayuda, a large tortilla smothered beans, cheese, and an array of toppings, perfect for sharing, though I often wanted one all to myself.

Mole, Oaxaca's signature sauce, comes in seven primary varieties, each with a unique blend of over 20 ingredients, including chocolate in the famed mole negro.

Markets like Mercado Benito Juárez and Mercado Tlacolula were treasure troves of local produce, meats, and an array of chillies that challenged my spice tolerance.

The delights of Oaxacan cuisine punctuated my journey with unforgettable flavors and conversations, weaving through the culinary landscape as deftly as the artisans weave their legendary textiles. Every bite and every encounter was a thread in the colourful tapestry of Oaxaca's cultural and culinary narrative.

The Magical Waters of Hierve el Agua

Having traversed the cultural tapestry of Oaxaca City, I set out for the rolling sierras to witness Hierve el Agua, the site of petrified waterfalls and natural mineral pools that I had heard whispers of—natural wonders so captivating, they bordered on the mystical.

As I approached, the sight that unfolded before me was nothing short of magical. Hierve el Agua, meaning "the water boils" in Spanish, is a misnomer that sparks the imagination. Contrary to its name, the water is cool, a refreshing counterpoint to the searing sun.

The pools are perched on the cliff's edge, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding valleys that is simply breathtaking. Stepping tentatively into the first pool, I remember the sensation of mineral-rich water enveloping my feet; the sensation was both invigorating and grounding.

The cliffside pools, formed by centuries of mineral-laden water spilling over the edge, created natural infinity pools with edges that seemed to kiss the horizon.

While I soaked, local myths echoed in my mind. Legends spoke of these waters as sacred, once revered by the incredible Zapotec civilisation. It was moving to consider how many before me had gazed upon these same formations, pondering life's wonders.

I spent hours there, occasionally swimming to the edge to peer cautiously over, watching as the water danced off the precipice and imagining it tumbling into the space below.

Venturing down the winding pathways, I reached the bottom of the petrified falls. Here, the enormity of the formations struck me. Up close, their textured surfaces told silent stories of time's relentless passage.

Hierve el Agua was a reminder of nature's patient artistry; each drop of water had contributed to this masterpiece over millennia, and I was merely a passing witness to its ongoing creation. In this moment of reflection, I was rooted in the present yet deeply connected to the threads of the past, woven seamlessly into the tapestry of Mexico's enchanting landscapes.

Discovering the undiscovered in Mitla

Travelling beyond the typical touristic pathways of Mexico, I found myself at the gates of Mitla, a site whispering tales of centuries past in the quiet Oaxaca valley. Known less to the world than its famous sibling, Teotihuacan, Mitla offers a different allure that speaks to those who seek to uncover the mysteries beneath the surface.

In my exploration, I was immediately captivated by the intricate mosaic patterns adorning the buildings, geometries etched into stone without the use of mortar. Unlike other Mesoamerican sites where grandiosity takes the main stage, here in Mitla, the devil was undoubtedly in the details.

The Tzompantli, a wall akin to those found in other ruins, was said to display the skulls of the sacrificed, a reminder of the rituals that once defined the Zapotec culture.

The tombs, some of which had been looted long before my arrival, still bore exquisite designs, testaments to the high esteem in which the dead were held.

I walked the same steps as ancient priests, touching the cool stone of the fortress-like structures that had outlived empires.

Mitla was revealing itself as a place where every stone held a story, waiting patiently for centuries to be heard. I left feeling humbled yet enriched, having touched a fraction of the undiscovered secrets veiled within its silent walls.

Tranquility in the waters of Tolantongo

As the sun climbed higher in the sky, I could see the steam rising from the natural hot springs that dot the rolling hills of Tolantongo. Located 3 hours north of Ciudad de Mexico, these turquoise waters became my sanctuary (for a moment).

My journey to Tolantongo was marked by an eagerness to delve into its famed thermal waters, said to possess healing properties. The drive through the winding roads of Hidalgo was a voyage in itself, each bend in the road offering breathtaking views of the lush, green cliffs that cradle the Grutas de Tolantongo.

Upon arrival, the first thing I did was slip into my swimwear and head straight to the pools. Wading into the soothing waters felt like entering a different realm. The tension in my muscles melted away as I let the warmth envelop me. It was early morning, and a quiet stillness hung in the air, broken only by the serene bubbling of the hot springs.

The pools cascade down a hillside in terraces, each one slightly cooler than the last.

A steamy waterfall, where hot water tumbled down a cliffside, became a natural shower, massaging my shoulders (maybe just a little too rough).

The caves were a highlight, the toasty water contrasting with the cool darkness as I explored further in.

Hammocks swayed invitingly between trees at the edge of the water, and I couldn't resist the urge to lie in one and let the gentle sound of flowing water lull me into a state of complete relaxation.

The rest of the day seemed to pass in a blissful blur. I lunched on a whole pineapple from my virgin pina colada made in a family-run stand, the flavours as vibrant as the landscape. The afternoon was spent floating down the meandering river that runs through the canyon, the cool water providing a pleasant contrast to the hot springs.

Tolantongo etched a place in my memory as a bastion of peace, a tranquil escape from the fast-paced life that awaited me beyond its serene waters.

Surfing and Solace in Puerto Escondido

As I stepped off the bus into the embrace of Puerto Escondido's balmy air, the clamour of Mexico City seemed like a distant memory. Here, the Pacific whispers its secrets through the rhythmic crash of waves, each one a call to the surfers' paradise that lay ahead.

I was staying in a hotel just footsteps from the famous Zicatela Beach, where the golden sands stretched out like a sunbather's dream. My mornings began with the salty sea breeze and refreshing walks that rooted my spirit just as firmly as my feet in the sand. These serene starts were the perfect counterpoint to the adrenaline-charged afternoons, where I sought to conquer the Puerto Escondido swell.

With a borrowed board, I tasted the thrill and humility of riding the colossal waves. Surf lessons were punctuated with laughter and numerous wipeouts, but the local surf community's encouragement became the buoy that kept my determination afloat.

Learning to embrace the tides, I found both challenge and tranquillity:

The awe of sunset surf sessions, painting the ocean with shades of fiery orange and serene purples.

The camaraderie around the beach, sharing tales and stories from the days activities.

Here, amidst the ebb and flow of the surfer's haven, I found a solace that stemmed from the raw power and beauty of nature. In Puerto Escondido, I wasn't just riding waves; I was learning to ride the unpredictability of life with a newfound grace.

Conclusion: Reflections on Six Enchanting Weeks in Mexico

As I pause to reminisce on my six-week sojourn across the diverse landscapes of Mexico, I'm filled with a deep sense of gratification. This journey has been a vibrant tapestry woven with threads of cultural encounters, natural wonders, and unexpected friendships.

My adventure kicked off in the beating heart of Mexico City, an electrifying metropolis where ancient history and contemporary life dance a complex tango. I wandered through the Frida Kahlo Museum, captivated by her bold spirit that seemed to reverberate through the vivid colours of Coyoacán.

The culinary odyssey was nothing short of divine; it led me to the bustling markets of Oaxaca. Each mole sauce I tasted was a revelation, and the smoky evenings are etched in my memory alongside the warm laughter of new acquaintances.

Then there was the exhilarating leap into the unknown as I surfed the cerulean waves of Puerto Escondido. The peace in helping turtles reach their home. The ocean my tutor, teaching me the essence of surrender and the pure joy in embracing the present moment.

Looking back, these six weeks have not only been a journey through Mexico but an inner expedition of growth and self-discovery. I leave for Guatemala with a treasure trove of experiences, a heart full of gratitude, and a yearning to return—to once again lose myself in Mexico's enchanting embrace.

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