Colonial Echoes: From London to Mexico City
By Jedediah Watkins
Read Time: 15 minutes
Embarking on a journey through the echoes of imperialism and European colonialism, I find myself in Mexico City after traversing the landscapes of London, Manchester, Toronto, and Montreal. Each city bears the marks of colonial history, shaping their architecture, culture, racial diversity, and language. Being a white man from England, it was impossible for me not to experience the privilege of living in the shadow of a colonial empire growing up. So today, I would like to delve into the unique manifestations of colonial legacies in these cities, and how I can respond to them while exploring Mexico City and beyond.
Colonialism in London, Manchester, Toronto, and Montreal
London stands as a testament to imperial grandeur, where towering structures like Buckingham Palace and the Houses of Parliament narrate a history of global domination and power amongst the backdrop of a bustling multicultural city. The architectural marvels of Victorian and Edwardian eras, embellished imperial symbolism, reflect a time of global conquest and exploitation. Despite efforts at modernization, London's colonial legacy remains palpable in its institutions (The Met Police has been found institutionally racist to this day), museums (The British museum lauds its colonial exploits over the world despite legitimate requests for the return or stolen artifacts), and urban planning ('Black boy lane, in Haringey which has subsequently been renamed 'La Rose Lane' or 'Plantation Place' renamed to '30 Fenchurch Street'), perpetuating narratives of superiority and subjugation that impact residents and travelers alike.
Similarly, Manchester's industrial heritage intertwines with colonialism, as cotton mills and warehouses once fueled by colonial trade still dot its landscape. The city's red-brick buildings echo a bygone era of textile dominance, highlighting the economic results of imperial exploitation. However, Manchester's contemporary cultural vibrancy and multiculturalism (due either to people choosing to move there or being forced to) provide an opportunity to attempt a departure from its colonial past, harking back to being the first city in the UK to incite resistance to the slave trade in 1792 (coming from slave revolts and then the working class). They are still very far way away from making a real, sustainable impact on correcting the wrongs of their colonial past (facing similar issues with their police and other institutions as their London counterparts), but Manchester seems to be making efforts to embrace diversity and innovation in the post-industrial age (the 'Revealing Histories' program tackles this through education) and will hopefully take more legitimate steps as they become a bigger city.
Moving across the Atlantic, Toronto emerges as a chorus of colonial influences, shaped by British, French, and Indigenous heritage while embracing a flourishing travel and tourism industry (with 9 million visitors in 2023). The colonial legacy is evident in the neoclassical architecture of Old City Hall and the Gothic Revival style of University of Toronto buildings, reflecting a fusion of European and North American aesthetics. Toronto's motto rings "Diversity Our Strength", Yet the cities policies, "multicultural ethos" or thriving arts scene rarely reflect a nuanced response to colonial legacies where indigenous peoples face disproportionately high rates of unemployment, food insecurity and chronic physical and health conditions.
In contrast to Toronto's British heritage, Montreal's colonial past intertwines with its distinct Francophone identity, evident in the ornate facades of Old Montreal's buildings and the preservation of French heritage sites. The city's duality, marked by colonial histories of both British and French dominion, enriches its cultural landscape with bilingualism and diverse cultural expressions, attracting travelers and immigration from around the world. A new issue has bubbled to the surface. Immigration from France has Montreal filling up with Parisians and compatriots looking for lower rents and easy assimilation into French speaking communities. Yet upon arrival, they are finding that colonial ties don't always bind. With Quebecers across the city and province complaining of 'snobbery and rising prices'. Not to ignore the mistreatment of indigenous people in Quebec too. Quebec, like their Ontario provincial counterparts have lower rates of employment, education and health standards for indigenous populations. All direct results of the British and French claiming land that was never theirs to begin with.
Effects of Colonialism in Mexico City
Transitioning to Mexico City, the effects of Spanish colonialism manifest vividly in its culinary traditions, music, culture, clothes and architecture through its diverse population. The fusion of Indigenous, Spanish, and African influences creates a dynamic cultural milieu that sets Mexico City apart.
Mexican cuisine, renowned globally for its flavors and diversity, bears the imprint of colonial encounters. Dishes like 'chiles en nogada' reflect Spanish ingredients (the seed of the Castille walnut) blended with Mexican culinary techniques, showcasing the fusion of imported produce with native cooking methods. The vibrant street food culture, with vendors offering tacos, tamales, and elotes, embodies a culinary heritage shaped by centuries of colonial exchange, attracting travelers eager to explore Mexico City's gastronomic delights.
Music in Mexico City echoes colonial legacies through genres like mariachi, son jarocho, and banda, which blend Indigenous rhythms with Spanish melodies and African sounds. These musical traditions display Mexico's multicultural heritage, serving as a testament to resilience and continuity. While highlighting Mexico as a slave trader but also as an escape for enslaved people leaving America as Mexico had it outlawed almost 30 years before their northern neighbours.
The fabric of Mexico City is woven with threads of Indigenous traditions, Catholicism brought by Spanish colonizers, and African culture from transatlantic slave trade routes. Festivals like Dia de los Muertos and Semana Santa showcase this syncretic blend, where Indigenous rituals merge with Catholic customs, creating a unique cultural syncretism.
Traditional attire in Mexico City reflects colonial influences, with garments like the charro suit and rebozo embodying Spanish and Indigenous fashion elements. The vibrant colors and intricate designs of Mexican textiles pay homage to pre-Columbian craftsmanship while adapting to contemporary fashion trends.
Architecturally, Mexico City's skyline juxtaposes colonial-era buildings like the Metropolitan Cathedral and National Palace with modern structures, reflecting a continuum of historical narratives. The Zocalo, once the heart of Aztec Tenochtitlan, now hosts colonial landmarks, symbolizing layers of history and cultural transformation.
While my understanding of how colonialism has left its mark on Mexico city and Mexico as a nation is still rudimentary, there are still colonial signs throughout the metropolis. The city, that was built upon the sieged ruins of Tenochtitlan. The ruins of which still lay in the center of Mexico City (Templo Mayor). The Aztecs were described as savages by the Spaniard colonizers. Yet when they discovered this city they found government, schools and public services. Evidence of advanced society, not the savages that the colonial regime would tell of once they had claimed the land, people and city as their own.
The misinformation spread around the Aztecs and other indigenous people has continued to this day and has left many citizens of Mexico City not knowing their true heritage or background. With calls for the Spanish colonizers to apologise and reconcile over their conquest, there is a chance that the city and the nation can reclaim the identity that was taken from them. There is much more to be written about colonialism and it's lasting effect on central and south America, which I shall delve further into the deeper I go and the more people I meet.
'GRINGO GO HOME'
Now you might be wondering why, amongst the only surface level apprehension of colonialism, imperialism and their affects on the UK, Canada and Mexico I sprinkled in mentions of travelers and tourism. It is in part due to two things;
1. I am a traveler, from a colonial land. Aware of my place in spaces I am travelling to.
2. I have been met with anti-traveler/tourist sentiment daily since being in Mexico City.
Gentrification in Mexico City presents a complex narrative of urban development, social change, and cultural transformation. As the city experiences rapid economic growth and urban renewal projects, neighborhoods undergo gentrification, leading to large and often negative impacts on the local community.
Gentrification brings investments in infrastructure, improved public spaces, and increased property values. This can lead to a revitalization of neglected areas, attracting businesses, tourists, and affluent residents. In Mexico City, neighborhoods like Roma and Condesa have seen significant gentrification, with renovated buildings, trendy cafes, and vibrant cultural scenes.
However, this 'investment' creates displacement and inequality. Seldom does this economic boom benefit anybody but investors and outsiders looking to capitalise on the opportunity. Rising property prices and rents can force longtime residents, especially low-income families, out of their neighborhoods. This leads to a loss of community cohesion and cultural identity, as well as challenges in accessing affordable housing and essential services.
The debate around gentrification in Mexico City underscores the need for inclusive urban planning strategies that balance economic development with social equity. Solutions must involve affordable housing initiatives, community-driven development projects, and policies that protect local populations from displacement while harnessing the benefits of urban renewal.
As a traveler I would be remis to ignore this communal issue, seeking to experience community and to provide to those I meet along the way. Through my travels and through this blog I shall endeavor to create community. And to empower those already existing without taking from them or ignoring my biases and privileges. I shall write breakdowns on my learnings of being a conscious traveler and invite any readers to educate me where I fall short or to connect me to those already doing a great job of it.
Conclusion
Comparing the effects of European colonialism in London, Manchester, Toronto, and Montreal to Mexico City reveals contrasting narratives of identity and cultural resilience. Mexico City's embrace of syncretism and fluidity reflects a negotiation of colonial legacies and an ever-growing cultural pool. Celebrating Indigenous heritage alongside international influences. The city's vibrant communities encapsulate a tale of global encounters and continuity while residents remain resilient to the onslaught that "growth" may bring.
As I reflect on my journey navigating the complexities of imperialism and colonialism, I am struck by the diverse manifestations of colonial legacies. Each city's narrative of colonialism shapes its architecture, culture, diversity and language, offering insights into complex histories of conquest, assimilation, and resilience. Mexico City, stands as a testament to the legacy of colonial encounters and the power of cultural resistance in shaping identities. And I for one am extremely excited to see how it grows from here.
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